Laser Hair Removal FAQ

Within a lively ongoing dialogue such as the one that exists among our laser hair removal message board, it's natural for a lot of similar questions to pop up. We thought it would be handy to have a solid, but ever-evolving resource that answers such common questions, so we asked one of our certified hair removal consultants to compile a list of FAQs. Consumer Rep "Blink888" provides rich, insightful commentary and feedback as a guest moderator on our message board and can answer any of your questions about laser hair removal and other hair removal techniques.

1. What exactly is laser hair removal?
   
2. Am I a candidate for laser hair removal?
   
3. Is laser hair removal permanent?
   
4. How does laser hair removal work?
   
5. What should I expect before and after treatment?
   
6. How many laser treatments will I need and how far apart are they scheduled?
   
7. Is laser hair removal painful?
   
8. What are the possible risks and side effects of laser hair removal?
   
9. What are the causes of excessive hair growth and how can it affect my treatments?
   
10. What should I look for when choosing a laser hair removal clinic?
    
11. What is the hair growth cycle and how does hair growth work?
    
12. How do I determine my Fitzpatrick Skin Type?
    
13. What are some of the newest hair lasers on the market?
    
14. Is it true that laser hair removal can actually cause more hair growth?
    
15. Can I just reduce the density of hair instead of removing it completely?
    
16. How much does laser hair removal cost?
    
17. How can I find a recommended laser center in my area?
    

1. What is Laser Hair Removal?
   
   Laser hair removal is a procedure by which hair is removed from the body by utilizing a long pulse laser. Lasers are developed and designed from years of research. The laser parameters are carefully defined by studying the anatomy of the hair follicle and precisely matching the laser light and pulse duration to the follicle size, depth and location to inhibit the re-growth of the hair.
   
   Laser hair removal is performed by a specially-trained laser specialist or a doctor depending on where you go, who distributes the light of a long pulse laser onto the skin. The laser works by disabling hairs that are in their active growth cycle at the time of treatment. Since other hairs will enter their growth cycle at different times, several treatments are necessary to disable all of the follicles in a given area.
   


2. Am I a Candidate for Laser Hair Removal?
   
   Both men and women seek laser hair removal services to have unwanted hair removed. Hair removal is commonly done on the hairline, eyebrow, top of the nose, lip, chin, ear lobe, shoulders, back, underarm, abdomen, buttocks, pubic area, bikini lines, thighs, face, neck, breast, arms, legs, hands, and toes.
   
   Laser works best on pale skin and dark coarse hair. The closer you are to this combination (i.e. the lighter the skin and the more coarse and dark the hair), the better the results will generally be. Alexandrite long pulse and diode types of lasers work best on light-colored skin. Nd:YAG long pulse lasers are better and safer on darker skin (skin types IV and darker – see Question #12 below to determine your skin type). Since laser works by being attracted to and targeting the dark pigment, using an alexandrite or a diode laser on darker skin can result in skin burning or loss of skin pigment (hypo-pigmentation). Long pulse Nd:YAG lasers were created to cater to dark-skinned patients, so they are safer on the skin at settings that actually affect the hair than alexandrite and diode lasers.
   
   When choosing your hair removal options, select an environment whose main priorities are your safety, health, and results.
   


3. Is Laser Hair Removal Permanent?
   
   The general opinion is that laser hair removal is permanent, and the Food and Drug Administration approved it as “permanent reduction,” but doesn’t work on everyone. Generally, this means that you shouldn’t expect laser to remove every single hair from an area. Most people need to follow up with electrolysis treatments for any remaining hairs for complete clearance as hair becomes too fine for laser to target and you reach diminishing returns. Most will also need touch-up treatments 1-2 times a year after the initial set of treatments for any new growth your body develops with age.
   
   It has also been observed that some people seem to be non-responders – this is not confirmed and reasons are not known as not enough research has been done in this area. Keep in mind that it's also difficult to judge whether someone’s lack of results is due to the person’s potential underlying medical condition that causes continuous growth and makes it seem like laser isn’t working, whether the treatment wasn't performed properly, or whether for some people it just doesn't work and we don't know why. Basically, you can’t determine this for yourself unless you try it. In addition, results also depend on many variables involved, including the tech's experience, type of laser used and how settings are set, etc.
   
   A set of at least 6-8 treatments at specified intervals are generally necessary to achieve substantial hair removal with laser. Factors that determine the length of treatment include the particular area to be treated, the texture of hair, frequency of treatments, history of temporary measures to remove hair (waxing, tweezing, shaving, and depilatories, etc.) etc.
   
   Electrolysis is considered a permanent hair removal method that has been used for the past 125 years. It involves treating one hair at a time and can take a considerably long time to complete a large area, but IS an option as well. It is also the recommended method for small areas (generally, chin, upper lip, eyebrows, etc), as well as for fine and light-colored hair. The most cost-efficient treatments to completely clear an area should start with laser to remove the bulk of the hair and finish with electrolysis to remove the remaining finer sparse hair.
   


4. How Does Laser Hair Removal Work?
   
   Lasers are optical devices which produce intense coherent, collimated and mono-chromatic beams of light. A laser consists of an active medium such as a crystal, gas or liquid that amplifies light when excited by an external energy source (a flash amp or electric discharge, for example). When the appropriate medium is employed, the laser can be fine-tuned to generate a very narrow band of light wavelengths (such as the individual colors of the visible spectrum).
   
   Lasers designed for permanent hair reduction emit wavelengths of light designed to be absorbed by the pigment in the hair (melanin). If the surrounding skin is relatively light compared to the color of the hair, then the entire energy of the laser will be concentrated in the hair shaft, effectively destroying it without affecting the skin or follicle. Hair removal lasers target the dark pigment in the hair. That’s why laser hair removal works best on light skin (so laser passes right through) and dark coarse hair (has most pigment).
   
   The ability of the laser to produce a very narrow bandwidth on a consistent basis is the key to a safe efficient treatment. The types of lasers used for permanent hair reduction include the ruby (old machines only safe for very pale skin types - not recommended), Nd:YAG, diode, and alexandrite.
   
   While the laser emits a beam that only heats the hair shaft, heat is transmitted from the hair shaft to the surrounding tissue for several milliseconds after the laser pulse. Several lasers possess cooling attachments which cool the surrounding skin to fully absorb any heat transmitted from the destroyed hair shafts.
   
   Be aware that hair removal systems that use traditional light for treatment (Intense Pulse Light machines or IPLs) are not true hair removal lasers. These devices use a highly concentrated beam of traditional incoherent light, often in conjunction with a cream or gel, to burn the hair shaft. A serious flaw with these systems is that they lack the laser's ability to produce a selective bandwidth of light that will only affect the hair shaft (selective photothermolysis). These devices produce a wide bandwidth of light that can heat up all of the surrounding tissue. IPLs are generally cheaper devices and are used for various skin procedures first and foremost, with hair removal as more of an afterthought. Judging from consumer feedback, true lasers usually achieve better and faster results for hair removal purposes.
   


5. What Should I Expect Before and After Treatment?
   
   You should shave the area to be treated 1-3 days before treatment (some clinics will offer to do this for you, but beware of irritation caused by disposable razors etc). No waxing or removing hair with the root with any other way is allowed 4-6 weeks before and throughout the course of treatment as hair needs to be in place to be targeted by laser. The area should be shaved as closely as possible so that laser can target the most energy towards the hair follicle and not waste energy on the part of the hair above the skin’s surface. If your hair is the type that you can’t see where it was right after you shave, make it a bit easier on your tech not to miss the spots you want treated by shaving 1-3 days before so the outline of where hair is growing is just VERY slightly visible.
   
   After treatment is completed (underarms take under 10 minutes, back treatment can take 1 hour or so), you should apply aloe vera to soothe the skin for a few days. Within 2-3.5 weeks, you should experience shedding of all treated hair. At first, hair will look like it’s growing back in, but it is just coming through the skin to shed. Shedding starts at about 1.5 weeks and can last until 3.5 weeks post-treatment or so. Exfoliating and/or scrubbing gently in the shower with a loofa can help speed up the process. After shedding finishes, you might experience little black dots still “stuck” in the skin. These are commonly referred to as “pepperspots” and will shed eventually, but might take a bit longer. Exfoliate to help those out as well.
   
   After shedding occurs, you should experience a hairfree period for a few weeks, until next set of hair that was dormant before starts to come in. Once you have enough to justify one, go in for another treatment. This usually happens within 6-10 weeks post-treatment. Patient continues this process until he/she has reached diminishing returns and the remaining hairs are too fine for laser to target, or until you have reached you desired reduction.
   
   If you don’t experience shedding, the settings used might have been too low and you should inform your technician that it didn’t happen. Also, if you feel that a lot of hair didn’t shed, the technician might have missed a lot of areas, and you might consider asking for a free touch-up. This should be done 4 weeks after treatment as by then shedding will be complete and you will know that whatever remains wasn’t affected. Certain clinics might offer these touch-ups free of charge when you sign up for treatments as their standard practice.
   


6. How Many Laser Treatments Will I Need and How Far Apart are They Scheduled?
   
   Most people need at least 6-8 initial treatments spaced 6-10 weeks apart. This is because hair grows in 3 phases and is killed in the first “anagen” active growing phase. Several treatments are needed to target ALL hair in the active growth phase. Approximately 6-10 weeks after every treatment, additional treatment is required to eliminate the hairs that came out of the dormant phase and are now active. After 6-8 treatments or so, patients should experience a considerable percentage of hair reduction. Depending upon hair type and genetic factors, some clients may require additional treatments beyond these initial treatments. If it seems like the treatments are not working after 6-8 treatments, patients should look into possible underlying reasons (see Question #9 below).
   
   Usually, treatments are spaced 6-8 weeks apart to start, and gradually move to 8-10 weeks apart after the initial 2-3 treatments. Instead of following an arbitrary schedule, wait until you have experienced shedding of the treated hairs (should complete within 2-3.5 weeks) and you see enough hair come in after the hairfree period to justify the next treatment.
   


7. Is Laser Hair Removal Painful?
   
   In one pulse, the laser can remove all the hair on a patch of skin the size of a nickel (depending on the specific laser spot size ranging from 9-18mm on average – i.e. the “head” of the laser from which the power is coming with every pulse). Everyone’s pain threshold is different, but generally laser hair removal is not much more painful than waxing, but the sensation is different. It resembles a rubber band snapping against the skin for a quick second with each pulse. Most people do not require an anesthetic cream (like EMLA), but one may be used for very sensitive patients/areas (can be provided or prescribed at the clinic). Be aware that using anesthetic creams is only safe on small areas (like upper lip, bikini, or underarms) and in small quantities. Using it on large areas like the back can cause adverse effects or even death. Consult with your tech and doctor if unsure.
   


8. What Are the Possible Risks and Side Effects of Laser Hair Removal?
   
   The possibility exists that some side effects or complications can occur given various variables, including:
   
   Normal
   • Itching, during treatment
   • Redness for up to 3 days
   • Swelling (around mouth of follicle) for up to 3 days
   • Pain, tingling, or feeling of numbness (cold spray)
   
   Rare
   • Crusting/scab formation (on ingrown hairs)
   • Bruising
   • Purpura (purple coloring of the skin) on tanned areas
   • Infection
   • Temporary pigment change (hypo-pigmentation or hyper-pigmentation)
   
   Side effects occur infrequently and, as a rule, generally are temporary. If any of the above last for more than 3 days, make sure to contact your technician and/or doctor. There is a possibility that settings were set too high and the technician needs to know in order to adjust on your following treatment.
   


9. What are the possible causes of excessive hair growth and how can it affect my treatments?
   
   The causes of excessive hair growth pattern are many and varied, including:
   • Heredity
   • Pregnancy
   • Glandular and/or hormonal imbalances (possible PCOS condition for women), including diseases causing these effects
   • Insulin resistance issues
   • Reactions to certain medications
   • Normal aging processes
   • Excessive temporary removal methods like waxing, tweezing, creams and depilatories, etc
   
   Every laser candidate should explore a possible underlying reason of the extreme hair growth before starting laser because if there is something in the body consistently triggering hair growth, laser treatments might seem ineffective because the body will keep developing new hair. So, it will always seem like there is not reduction, when in fact it’s NEW hair your body is producing that you are seeing, not that treated by laser growing back. Women with PCOS hair growth patterns (upper lip, chin, cheeks, etc) should see an endocrinologist and have hormonal tests taken. Men can get tested for insulin resistance etc. Talk to your doctor if you suspect you might have an underlying medical condition causing excessive hair growth before starting laser hair removal. Once the condition is control through treatment/medication, laser hair removal can then be performed. Laser can affect the hair that’s currently present, but cannot prevent NEW hair from developing.
   


10. What Should I Look for When Choosing a Laser Hair Removal Clinic?
    
    The clinic: Make sure that you go in for a "free" consultation to see if you are happy with the way the clinic looks and feels (clean, up-to-date and informative) and avoid being pressured by sales reps to sign up on the spot (often prevalent at chain clinics). It’s recommended to sample 3-4 places before committing. You will probably find that prices can vary as much as 100-200% (and some will have options of paying up front for a package of treatments, while others won’t). Make sure you feel that they showed more interest in how the treatment will work for you and your personal results instead of being more interested in how much you will be paying.
    
    The laser technician: Make sure that the person treating you has extensive experience of hair removal and has knowledge of how to best kill the hair (Ask a lot of questions about this at a chain clinic as you might get a different tech every time you come for treatment. Chain clinics vary by location, so make sure you are comfortable with everyone there and they don’t have a high employee turnover if you do decide to go with it). Ask questions and make sure they answer them based on your research. If you are an informed consumer, you will be able to better judge whether what they’re saying is in your best interests or not. Keep in mind that whether a person treating you has an MD or not does not necessarily reflect their laser hair removal skills. Hair removal is not taught in medical schools, so what you should be looking for instead is specific knowledge of and experience in hair removal.
    
    The laser: Make sure that the laser being used is best for your skin and hair type. Do not fall for “marketing hype”. Every laser can technically be used on any skin type, but you should be looking for one that will produce the most efficient results for YOU.
    
    Alexandrite long pulse and diode lasers are very effective when the skin type is light (I-III - see question #11 to determine your skin type) and the hair is dark enough to attract the laser within the follicle. Just because it is an alexandrite, does not make it the best on the market. Precision cooling of the skin prior to laser application, exact delivery of an effective energy beam deep into the tissue, and proper training can make all the difference between maintenance or permanence. Some of the most popular alexandrite lasers include GentleLASE by Candela Corporation and Apogee by Cynosure.
    
    Diode lasers work best on skin types I-IV. The most popular on the market is the LightSheer laser by Lumenus.
    
    Nd:YAG long pulse lasers are best for treating darker skin types (IV-VI) or patients of color such as: Afro-American, Asian, Hispanic, Mediterranean, European and Middle Eastern.
    
    Alexandrites and diodes are generally more effective on finer hair given higher settings than Yag lasers. So, if your skin type falls into types III-IV and the hair is finer, an alex or a diode is preferred. If your skin is darker than a type V and the hair is fine, the hair might not have enough pigment to be treated, so a test spot might be necessary before committing to a treatment.
    


11. What is the Hair Growth Cycle and How Does Hair Growth Work?
    
    Under normal circumstances hair growth in each hair follicle occurs in a cycle. There are three main phases of the hair growth cycle: anagen, catagen and telogen.
    
    Anagen (active) is the growing phase or when the hair fiber is produced. During anagen, the hair contains an abundance of melanin, the pigment which gives your hair its color. This is the phase during which laser hair removal treatment is most effective.
    
    Catagen (club hair) is the period of controlled regression of the hair follicle. This phase is when the lower part of the hair stops growing, but does not shed, and the follicle is reabsorbed. It will be difficult for permanence to be achieved when the hair is in the catagen growth cycle.
    
    Telogen (tired) is the last of the hair growth cycle. In this resting phase, the old hair falls out in preparation for the development of a new anagen hair. Permanence cannot be achieved when the hair are in the telogen growth cycle.
    
    Remember, anagen is followed by catagen, a period of controlled regression of the hair follicle. Ultimately the hair follicle enters telogen, when the follicle is in a so-called resting state.
    
    Normally this cycle of hair production will continue for the duration of the individual's life. However, other factors can influence, promote and inhibit hair production. How well the laser can eliminate the hairs, depends on the skin type/color, hair type/color and what initially caused the hair to grow.
    


12. How do I Determine my Fitzpatrick Skin Type?
    
    In 1975, Thomas B Fitzpatrick, MD, PhD, of Harvard Medical School, developed a classification system for skin typing. This system was based on a person's response to sun exposure in terms of the degree of burning and tanning the individual experienced. For successful removal of hair, wrinkles, veins, sun spots, and scars using LASER technology, it is necessary determine your correct skin type.
    
    TYPE I: Highly sensitive, always burns, never tans.
    Example: Red hair with freckles or Albino
    
    TYPE II: Very sun sensitive, burns easily, tans minimally.
    Example: Fair-skinned, fair-haired Caucasians
    
    TYPE III: Sun sensitive skin, sometimes burns, slowly tans to light brown.
    Example: Darker Caucasians, European mix
    
    TYPE IV: Minimally sun sensitive, burns minimally, always tans to moderate brown.
    Example: Mediterranian, European, Asian, Hispanic, American Indian
    
    TYPE V: Sun-insensitive skin, rarely burns, tans well.
    Example: Hispanics, Afro-American, Middle Eastern
    
    TYPE VI: Sun-insensitive, never burns, deeply pigmented.
    Example: Afro-American, African, Middle Eastern
    


13. What Are Some of the Newest Hair Lasers on the Market?
    
    1. Alexandrite: GentleLASE, Apogee, EpiTouch Plus
    
    2. Diode: LightSheer, SLP 1000, F1 Diode, MeDioStar, LaserLite, Epistar, Apex 800, Comet (w/RF technology), Palomar SLP 1000
    
    3. Nd:Yag: CoolGlide, GentleYAG, Lyra-i, Sciton, Apogee Elite, Medlite IV, Varia, Athos
    
    4. IPL: Aurora (w/RF technology), Harmony, EpiLight, PhotoDerm, Quantum, Aculight, Vasculight, Palomar Starlux and EsteLux
    
    5. Ruby: RubyStar, E2000
    


14. Is it true that laser hair removal can cause more hair growth than what I started with?
    
    This occurrence HAS been reported by consumers on various forums, although it has not been medically proven or confirmed. It is a rare occurrence and usually seems to happen when treating woman’s face or men’s back/shoulders/upper arms – usually when treating SPARSE SINGLE HAIRS or FINE VELLUS hairs and at lower settings. The best way to stay on the safe side is to only treat areas with laser that have coarse dark hair and make sure the technician doesn’t touch any sparse or vellus hairs. Those hairs should be removed with electrolysis.
    


15. Can I just reduce the density of hair on an area instead of removing it completely?
    
    Yes, this can be achieved with having only a few treatments instead of the complete set of 6-8 and by an experienced technician who is careful not to miss areas during treatments.
    


16. How Much Does Laser Hair Removal Cost?
    
    Prices vary widely from clinic to clinic. Some also offer discounts for paying up front for multiple treatments. Although the upside is possibly paying less money overall, this also involves signing a contract which will prevent you from getting any refunds in case something goes wrong or you are not happy with the services before and/or after you are done. Remember, that laser doesn’t work on everyone also when making this decision. It’s recommended that you get 3-4 consultations before deciding on a clinic as well to compare prices and technician’s experience etc.
    
    Here is VERY general average pricing information in the U.S for commonly treated areas. You can estimate other areas based on the size. Keep in mind that these are just estimates based on consumers reporting what they have paid for treatments on various forums:
    
    Price per 1 treatment:
    
    Full face - $150-300
    Upper lip - $50-150
    Chin - $50-150
    Underarms (both) - $50-150
    Regular bikini - $100-200 (definition at each clinic is different – ask!)
    Brazilian bikini - $200-300
    Half legs (both) - $200-400
    Half arms (both) - $200-400
    Butt - $150-300
    Back - $200-500
    Chest - $100-300 (ask for definition)
    Abdomen - $100-300 (ask for definition)
    


17. How can I find a recommended laser center in my area?
    
    There are several things you can try. You can run a search on any of the laser hair removal forums, like the Cosmetic Enhancements Forum, using the search box for your city name to read about experiences of previous consumers at the clinics in your area. You can also try running a provider search on the laser manufacturer websites (Cutera and Candela offer this option on their sites). Finally, you can check your local Yellow Pages or citysearch.com for listings in your area.